The True Decapê Technique is a very appropriate texture in furniture, doors, windows, frames in general (frames, mirror, etc...) always giving a rustic look with a lot of class.
The technique fits best with the shades from dark brown to light beige, as well as from green to blue, but any color can be used.
It is suggested to always use tone on tone.
- Bitumen diluted in extra turpentine (if you want the aged technique).
- Cotton knit cloth.
- Colored ink.
- PVA Racing Mass.
- PVA or white-snow acrylic paint.
- Sandpaper 120
- Brush or brush.
- Wax (optional).
- Dye in desired tone.
- Container for the mass.
- Ask to be crafted.
Leave "ready" and ready the materials that will be used.
This technique uses only the sandpaper as the main tool, since this gives the final finishing in the piece or surface.
The cream should be prepared by mixing 60% latex and 40% PVA paint.
White glue (polar type) can be added in the proportion of 10% glue, 40% PVA paint and 50% dough.
Beat the mixture well with a brush or spatula, until it has a creamy consistency.
Apply the following mixture of its preparation.
Initially, we cleaned with a brush the piece, already prepared with the white background.
Then we pass the mass previously prepared on the surface, so that it is covered in thickness and about 2 to 3 mm thick.
If the quantity is beyond this measure, there will be no problem, since with the brush itself, the excess will be removed, returning the leftover mass to its container.
Try to evenly spread the dough throughout the area.
The greater the pressure exerted on the brush against the surface, the greater number of protruding ribs will be made. The Decapé will become more rustic.
The movements during the application of the technique should be done as straight as possible, so that the risks can be parallel to each other.
After applying the dough and the brush, gently pass the spatula over the friezes made by the brush, in order to flatten them slightly, giving another type of finish.
Try to move with the brush so that the paint fills the grooves of the texture.
Paint in the direction of mass hazards.
If in painting, you do not like the tint of the paint used (often the applied tonality is different in the piece), you can still dissolve it with water, passing a damp sponge on the surface, in order to lighten the already applied paint, washing the sponge while it is in a strong tone.
After complete drying of the surface, sand it with movements in the direction of the texture veins, to the point where the protrusions are left with "quantity" of white friezes (color of the original mass) that reaches the finish of your preference.
This technique can be done with the application of two colors.
To do so, it will be enough to apply the first coat of one color, wait for the complete drying and apply the second coat with the other color.
Sanding at the end.
If you want the white of the surface bottom to appear in some areas, it is enough to deepen (sanding harder) the sandpaper in these places.
The pressure on the sandpaper is that it will determine the finish, the stronger, the clearer the texture will be (in this case).
The more the dough is sanded, the more it will be left with corresponding white scratches.
You can leave some parts darker than the others, avoiding an equal finish that is monotonous.
Thoroughly clean the surface with a fine-bristled brush to remove any dust residues from the sanded material.
Spray a varnish coat, shiny or dull, to protect the surface and make it washable.
I suggest it be lacquered with dull varnish. It will give a closer look to a surface naturally aged by time.
If aged with a mixture of wax and bitumen, it should only be varnished after complete drying of the surface.